We were talking with a friend in Ramallah about the culture and internationals that have to somehow fit in it.
It is difficult to respect the culture and at the same time live your own way, especially if you live in Hebron, which is one of the most conservative cities in oPt. He said that on the other hand people in Hebron seeing us can relfect on their individuality. As the relation with family is very strong it is difficult for young people to develop their individual ideas and put them forward, according to him.
Friday, January 16, 2009
Wednesday, January 14, 2009
Never too late: basic info on Hebron
- Hebron is the second largest city in the occupied Palestinian territory (around 170 000 inhabitants).
- It is the only Palestinian city with Israeli settlements in the heart of Palestinian neighborhoods.
- It houses the Tomb of Abraham and Sara, Jacob and Rebbeca, Izaak and Leah, and supposedly Adam and Eve, being a holy site for Jews, Muslims (4th holiest place after Mekka, Medina and Al-Aqsa) and Christians.
- It is divided in 2 areas: H1 - Palestinan controlled and H2 - Israeli controlled.
- H2 contains all the historical old city with the tomb of Abraham.
Tuesday, January 13, 2009
Monday, January 12, 2009
Morning in the Teacher's Room
6.50 a.m. We walk towards the checkpoint CP56 to see if we can get in the Tel Rumeida area where there is a Palestinian school located just opposite a Jewish settlement. Luckily the Israeli soldiers, after hesitating a while, let us in. That means we can accompany children to school (that are often harassed by settlers), which is one of our main tasks in Hebron. But I will talk about it some other time.
Today, as it is an examination period, teachers (all of them women) gathered in the Teacher's Room. A lot of things were going on here. Someone was pouring tea and coffee - always present in any kind of gathering, others where filling in the school logs, some other teachers were correcting children's exam papers. While minutes were passing the atmosphere in the room became more and more relaxed and conversations more dynamic.
All kind of topics were touched. Of course War on Gaza was the main thing, as it is on everyone's mind and lips right now. But then topics swapped like in a kaleidoscope. Some talked about advantages of breast feeding and peoples' awareness on it, some gossiping about new marriages, some complaining on men, some showing of new piece of clothes they recently bought. After all, women are women anywhere.
It felt so comfortable to be inside this messy and loud room. It was very warm in spite of the low temperature. The only thing I could wish for at that moment was to be a fluent Arabic speaker and get involved in the conversation.
Today, as it is an examination period, teachers (all of them women) gathered in the Teacher's Room. A lot of things were going on here. Someone was pouring tea and coffee - always present in any kind of gathering, others where filling in the school logs, some other teachers were correcting children's exam papers. While minutes were passing the atmosphere in the room became more and more relaxed and conversations more dynamic.
All kind of topics were touched. Of course War on Gaza was the main thing, as it is on everyone's mind and lips right now. But then topics swapped like in a kaleidoscope. Some talked about advantages of breast feeding and peoples' awareness on it, some gossiping about new marriages, some complaining on men, some showing of new piece of clothes they recently bought. After all, women are women anywhere.
It felt so comfortable to be inside this messy and loud room. It was very warm in spite of the low temperature. The only thing I could wish for at that moment was to be a fluent Arabic speaker and get involved in the conversation.
Sunday, January 11, 2009
Talking about non violence ...over a shisha
Issa (meaning Jesus BTW), a Palestinian peace activist is one of our local contact. His experience in non-violent initiatives and dedication to the cause are impressive. Here are some quotes:
"If we need an Intifada it should be a non-violence intifada. A change always has its price. People schuld go on the streets. If all people of Hebron go to the streets, there is no army to stop them. But what we need is non violent resistance. When people tell you they are tired ask them what they are tired from. "
"If you ask yourself : What am I doing here?, realize that your job here is very important. Telling small storries is what makes a change. It makes a huge difference if you tell it to your friends an family and maybe they will do the same.It is not the media story, you are part of it and no one can tell you it is not true if you lived it. One of the most important tools of non-violence is advocacy and increasing awareness.
"I keep telling my Israeli friends: people here don't hate Jews. But you just happen to have very bad ambassadors in Hebron - settlers that harass, shoot, occupy houses, close the streets for Palestinians. What do you expect the people that suffer to do, give them flowers?"
"Replying to arguments, Jewish people always go back to 2000 years ago, like if Bible was a land registry office"
Saturday, January 10, 2009
A routine of being detained for nothing..
One of our tasks in Hebron is guiding tours. Today it was not a qiuite exceptional one of 80 bishops from the US. It is not an easy task to squeeze such a number of people in the narrow streets of the old city of Hebron and talk to them at the same time. Somehow we managed.
As the group was to visit the Ibrahimi Mosque that houses the Tomb of the Patrirchs, they had to go through the security check. That is usual, however one lady wanted to give a present to the Muslim Sheikh that was meeting the bishops inside the mosque. The police didn't want to agree (acording to him she could brake the vase and use it as a weapon). Suddenly one of our Palestinian friends was being detained as he was translating for the lady, trying to help. With no reason he was taken to a detention room to be searched. Inside a soldier took some notes and suggested it might be something related to a bomb.
This is a usual thing for the Palestinians unfortunately.
We refused to leave until they released him.
As the group was to visit the Ibrahimi Mosque that houses the Tomb of the Patrirchs, they had to go through the security check. That is usual, however one lady wanted to give a present to the Muslim Sheikh that was meeting the bishops inside the mosque. The police didn't want to agree (acording to him she could brake the vase and use it as a weapon). Suddenly one of our Palestinian friends was being detained as he was translating for the lady, trying to help. With no reason he was taken to a detention room to be searched. Inside a soldier took some notes and suggested it might be something related to a bomb.
This is a usual thing for the Palestinians unfortunately.
We refused to leave until they released him.
Thursday, January 8, 2009
Projects that give hope
CINEMA JENIN
In Jenin a city known by the Israeli as the "nest of terrorists" and that faces many army incursions in the refugee camp adjacent to it, there are people that try to focus on the positive aspects. To help develop the society through art and education and give especially the children something to live for and be entertained with.
In front of the central Jenin bus station there is a cinema, everyone knows it ant it is even an orientation point, however it has been closed for 20 years now. This only cinema in the city was closed at the outsets of the first Intifada. The project Cinema Jenin hopes to bring it back to life.
http://www.cinemajenin.com/cj/index.php/home
(I especially recommend the trailers!!)
Photo: The director of "The Heart of Jenin" movie and local arquitects working on reopening the cinema
Photo: A boy from Jenin refugee camp holds an old cinema poster. As part of the project children from the refugee camp are having film making workshops and take part in renovating the cinema.
Photo: Old movie projectors that can still be used
Photo: Cinema tickets from 20 years ago. They will be saved to use them as the cinema will reopen in 2010.
In Jenin a city known by the Israeli as the "nest of terrorists" and that faces many army incursions in the refugee camp adjacent to it, there are people that try to focus on the positive aspects. To help develop the society through art and education and give especially the children something to live for and be entertained with.
In front of the central Jenin bus station there is a cinema, everyone knows it ant it is even an orientation point, however it has been closed for 20 years now. This only cinema in the city was closed at the outsets of the first Intifada. The project Cinema Jenin hopes to bring it back to life.
http://www.cinemajenin.com/cj/index.php/home
(I especially recommend the trailers!!)
Photo: The director of "The Heart of Jenin" movie and local arquitects working on reopening the cinema
Photo: A boy from Jenin refugee camp holds an old cinema poster. As part of the project children from the refugee camp are having film making workshops and take part in renovating the cinema.
Photo: Old movie projectors that can still be used
Photo: Cinema tickets from 20 years ago. They will be saved to use them as the cinema will reopen in 2010.
Wednesday, January 7, 2009
Off to Jenin
Photo: the Separation Barrier with meaningful graffiti on it
Photo: The Separation Barrier seen on the way to Ramallah
It takes at least 4 hours to get to Jenin from Hebron. Depending on the number of checkpoints on the way, military orders and often mood of the soldiers. First I hop on a service (a van bus) to Ramallah and at the big Ramallah bus terminal I hop on the one that leaves to Jenin. The bus leaves when it is full. We are stopped at one so called 'flying check point' - they can appear anytime anywhere...The soldier is a Druze meaning that he speaks Arabic (the Druze are known to be the strictest ones). As they usually do, he takes IDs from the men only. After waiting for 30 minutes the driver asks him how long we would still wait.
- You have a problem?- the soldier says. He clearly wants to show he is the boss there and it depends all on him.
Photo: One of the many check points
On a service I am never bored. That is why I love to travel through the Palestinian territories. Views are enjoyable, territory division interesting and people entertaining. There is always someone to talk to. People often speak English and are happy to talk. Sometimes when they don't I manage with my Arabic, pretending I understand it all.... Anyway, that is how one learns:)
Palestinian territory is divided into A, B and C areas. For beginners it is difficult to know in which one you are in, but after some time here it gets more and more clear. One of the signs is that when you cross from Israeli controlled area to the Palestinian controlled area people immediately unfasten their seat belts. "Now you can take it off" they would tell me, "There is no Israeli police anymore". :)
Tuesday, January 6, 2009
...boys that fight in Gaza
Today we went to the check point 56 as everyday in the morning we do. The flag of the Givati brigade was not there anymore.
- What happened to the flag?- we asked one of the soldiers.
- They went to Gaza- he said.
So the nice 20 year old boys we were seeing everyday in there are in war now.
- Do you wanna go to Gaza?-we asked
- Yes, here it is boring. I want to fight like my friends.
- You want to kill?
- I don't want to kill, I want to defend my country.
- But, it is dangerous, you can die.
- I don't care. I have nothing to lose.
- What happened to the flag?- we asked one of the soldiers.
- They went to Gaza- he said.
So the nice 20 year old boys we were seeing everyday in there are in war now.
- Do you wanna go to Gaza?-we asked
- Yes, here it is boring. I want to fight like my friends.
- You want to kill?
- I don't want to kill, I want to defend my country.
- But, it is dangerous, you can die.
- I don't care. I have nothing to lose.
Monday, January 5, 2009
What's new in Gaza?
Well, yesterday Israel entered Gaza by land. So now it is being attacked from the three sides: land, see and air. In front of the Red Cross office in Hebron people gathered today to call for Palestinian unity and protest against the violence in Gaza, especially directed towards children. They had banners and talked to the media. Out of 517 victims, 107 are children. One fifth.
Maan News: Israeli Prime Minister Ehud Olmert said on Sunday night that
Hazem, one of the many Hebronites that has family in Gaza, told me yesterday his father's house was bombed. Fortunately he was not home at the moment, but now he has no house anymore and lives in his relatives house.
Thursday, January 1, 2009
Kefiyyeh factory - the only one in the West Bank
If you don't know about it you would never find it. But we knew and it was so worth it. The only Keffiyeh factory in the
It is a family business and most probably we were one of the very few who ever visited it. People did not seem disturbed by our presence and continued to do their job just as they usually do.
Keffiyeh is a scarf traditionally used by Arab men to cover their heads. It is also a Palestinian national symbol. Now it is worn in many different ways and became part of fashion.
Al Arroub Refugee Camp - Part 2: living by hope
In the camp we visited two houses to show our presence, tell the people they are not completely forgotten and listen to their stories.
People we talked to still remember the exodus of 1948 which is referred to by Palestinians as Nakba: the Catastrophe. Although camps have now transformed into cities, mentally refugees' presence there is temporary. They live by hope that they would go back to their homes. They wish to die and be buried there. For some reason they still believe this dream would come true, even though they have been waiting for this to happen for over 60 years now.
Photo: Na'ma, who lived the 1948 exodus explains the young Palestinian second generation refugee how difficult it was.
The two ladies live in the house built in the 1948 by the UN. They live together to support each other. They are indirectly related as the sister of the one on the left was the first wife of the husband of the one on the right:) They were extremely happy that we paid them a visit and very talkative and open to tell us their story, asking us to come back. In these moments I really regret not to be a fluent Arabic speaker...
People we talked to still remember the exodus of 1948 which is referred to by Palestinians as Nakba: the Catastrophe. Although camps have now transformed into cities, mentally refugees' presence there is temporary. They live by hope that they would go back to their homes. They wish to die and be buried there. For some reason they still believe this dream would come true, even though they have been waiting for this to happen for over 60 years now.
Photo: Na'ma, who lived the 1948 exodus explains the young Palestinian second generation refugee how difficult it was.
The two ladies live in the house built in the 1948 by the UN. They live together to support each other. They are indirectly related as the sister of the one on the left was the first wife of the husband of the one on the right:) They were extremely happy that we paid them a visit and very talkative and open to tell us their story, asking us to come back. In these moments I really regret not to be a fluent Arabic speaker...
Al Arroub Refugee Camp - a 'temporary' city...
Al Arroub is a refugee camp just outside of Hebron (one of the 19 refugee camps in the West Bank). It was established in 1948 when its inhabitants were expelled from what is now Israel. These refugees come from 37 locations (among them Haifa and Ber Sheba), meaning that they are of different customs and traditions.
Photo: a graphitti with names of the 37 villages of origin of the Al Arroub camp's refugees.
Photo: Refugee houses dating to 1948
As the camp is restricted to one square km it is overpopulated. For over 9000 people (including 3000 children) that live in the camp, there is only:
Photo: One of the schools run by the United Nations
Children are especially vulnerable in the camp because of the difficult economic situation of families and daily violence they witness. As the camp is located in Area C (Israeli control) there are frequent clashes with the Israeli soldiers and children, as they spend most time in the streets, take part. To their stone throwing the Israeli army responds with tear gas and sound bombs, which is according to Nidal, one of the camp's inhabitants, clearly disproportional. As a result many children suffer from anxiety, depression, spelling problems, problems with adolescence.
In order to keep the children out of the streets a youth center was established. There is also a women's center in the camp with a library, a gym, kindergarten, workshops of health awareness and women rights. There is also an ngo for the handicapped (many we shot by the army or settlers). But still, it is a drop in the ocean of refugees' needs.
People we talked to still remember the exodus of 1948 which is referred to by Palestinians as Nakba: the Catastrophe. Although camps have now transformed into cities, mentally refugees' presence there is temporary. They live by hope that they would go back to their homes. They wish to die and be buried there. For some reason they still believe this dream would come true, even though they have been waiting for this to happen for over 60 years now.
The camp's steets are full of powerful wall paintings commemorating the Nakba and the refugee fate.
Handala - a symbol of Palestinian resisitance. It was drawn by Naji Al-Ali who said: “His name is Handala and he has promised the people that he will remain true to himself. I drew him as a child who is not beautiful; his hair is like the hair of a hedgehog who uses his thorns as a weapon. Handala is not a fat, happy, relaxed, or pampered child. He is barefooted like the refugee camp children, and he is an icon that protects me from making mistakes. Even though he is rough, he smells of amber. His hands are clasped behind his back as a sign of rejection at a time when solutions are presented to us the American way."
Key is the main symbol of Palestinian refugees. It represents wtheir will of going back to their homes. Some of them do still have the keys to their previous houses.
Photo: a graphitti with names of the 37 villages of origin of the Al Arroub camp's refugees.
Photo: Refugee houses dating to 1948
As the camp is restricted to one square km it is overpopulated. For over 9000 people (including 3000 children) that live in the camp, there is only:
- 1 UN clinic (with 1 doctor and 2 nurses)
- 2 schools run by UNRWA (1 for boys and 1 for girls) and 2 governmental schools
- 1 social worker
- There is no sewage network
Photo: One of the schools run by the United Nations
Children are especially vulnerable in the camp because of the difficult economic situation of families and daily violence they witness. As the camp is located in Area C (Israeli control) there are frequent clashes with the Israeli soldiers and children, as they spend most time in the streets, take part. To their stone throwing the Israeli army responds with tear gas and sound bombs, which is according to Nidal, one of the camp's inhabitants, clearly disproportional. As a result many children suffer from anxiety, depression, spelling problems, problems with adolescence.
In order to keep the children out of the streets a youth center was established. There is also a women's center in the camp with a library, a gym, kindergarten, workshops of health awareness and women rights. There is also an ngo for the handicapped (many we shot by the army or settlers). But still, it is a drop in the ocean of refugees' needs.
People we talked to still remember the exodus of 1948 which is referred to by Palestinians as Nakba: the Catastrophe. Although camps have now transformed into cities, mentally refugees' presence there is temporary. They live by hope that they would go back to their homes. They wish to die and be buried there. For some reason they still believe this dream would come true, even though they have been waiting for this to happen for over 60 years now.
The camp's steets are full of powerful wall paintings commemorating the Nakba and the refugee fate.
Handala - a symbol of Palestinian resisitance. It was drawn by Naji Al-Ali who said: “His name is Handala and he has promised the people that he will remain true to himself. I drew him as a child who is not beautiful; his hair is like the hair of a hedgehog who uses his thorns as a weapon. Handala is not a fat, happy, relaxed, or pampered child. He is barefooted like the refugee camp children, and he is an icon that protects me from making mistakes. Even though he is rough, he smells of amber. His hands are clasped behind his back as a sign of rejection at a time when solutions are presented to us the American way."
Key is the main symbol of Palestinian refugees. It represents wtheir will of going back to their homes. Some of them do still have the keys to their previous houses.
Wednesday, December 31, 2008
No blood for injured Gazans
Today I spoke to some young people who tried to donate blood in one of Hebron hospitals for the Gaza victims. According to them there were around 400 volunteers. However they were denied giving blood, as it is useless due to Israeli blockade on its transport to Gaza.
More interesting articles on Gaza: reading highly recommended
- Why would Israel bomb a university?: http://www.maannews.net/en/index.php?opr=ShowDetails&ID=34411
- UN statement: http://www.maannews.net/en/index.php?opr=ShowDetails&ID=34423
- Our boys, just following orders, didn't distinguish between Hamasniks and children, traffic cops and gunmen: http://www.haaretz.com/hasen/spages/1051317.html
- My article in Polish: http://www.arabia.pl/content/view/292107/1/
Tuesday, December 30, 2008
Mourning is not staying at home
Students from the Hebron University marched through the city protesting against the Israeli violence in Gaza. They lifted banners and slogans calling on the world to break the silence and call for an end to the tragedy in Gaza. Many students carried black flags to mark the mourning period for the now over 300 dead. /Mann/
“Mourning is not staying at home and keeping the silence, but touring the streets, lifting our banners high and shouting to the world that we condemn Israeli practices, “said Head of the Student Council Muhannad Amro. /Maan/
When student reached Bab Az-Zawiya, it transformed into clashes with Israeli soldiers. Some demonstrators threw stones and soldiers responded with shooting teargas and opening fire. 9 students were injures.
Another Nakba? Now 363 killed, 1700 injured by Israeli air stike in Gaza; at least 62 are women and children according to UN
/photo: Palestinians in the center of Hebron reading news from Gaza/
Articles related to Israeli air strike on Gaza:
http://www.maannews.net/en/index.php?opr=ShowDetails&ID=34376 (Hebron University students demonstration to mourn over 300 dead in Gaza)
http://www.maannews.net/en/index.php?opr=ShowDetails&ID=34387 (Palestinian Authority statement on Gaza)
http://www.maannews.net/en/index.php?opr=ShowDetails&ID=34375 (Who died in Gaza)
Monday, December 29, 2008
How should I put it....
With so many things going on and so many people I have talked to in the last two days it is difficult to gather thoughts. Time to digest information is needed. People killed in Gaza, Palestinians protesting, Israelis saying that it was the only way... Images seen are so many and so contradictory. This is the Middle East, this is the Israeli-Palestinian conflict or the Occupation , whatever you call it.
Saturday, December 27, 2008
Israel air strikes on Gaza - eye for an eye?
Today Israel attacked Gaza, in response to Hamas firing more and more Qassam missiles to Israel. 205 people are already dead and more that 320 are severely injured so far. All throughout the West Bank have spread demonstrations against the Israeli attack on Gaza. The one in Hebron escalated as it tends to happen: some youth started throwing stones and Israeli army used teargas and closed the shops in the center of the city (Bab Az-Zawiyya). According to Abed, one of our friends that owns a shop in Bab Az-Zawiyya, the teargas used today was much stronger as people started fainting. Ambulances were going back and forth according to witnesses.
I just came back from my days off in Tel Aviv and it was so difficult to combine and accept the two realities at the same time. After seeing the pictures from Gaza, the simple and maybe naive question comes through my mind: how do the people that make the decision to hit Gaza knowing that mostly the innocent civilians will die are able to sleep at night?
Children and old people died, how can it be justified? It definitely won't teach Hamas a lesson and people will only get angry.
I just came back from my days off in Tel Aviv and it was so difficult to combine and accept the two realities at the same time. After seeing the pictures from Gaza, the simple and maybe naive question comes through my mind: how do the people that make the decision to hit Gaza knowing that mostly the innocent civilians will die are able to sleep at night?
Children and old people died, how can it be justified? It definitely won't teach Hamas a lesson and people will only get angry.
Tuesday, December 23, 2008
Spanish folk concert in front of the checkpoint
Today a delegation of 190 Spanish politicians, peace activists, media and tourists learned that they were not allowed to get in to the Palestinian Qurtoba School where they were to perform activities for children. The aim of the visit was to have a concert and art workshops for school children that are often traumatized and face settler violence. As the visitors were denied access, like it has been happening to all internationals for 2 months now, the school children came to meet them outside the check point .
A folk band of Spanish musicians from Galicia started playing, people were clapping and waving their hands. Children were singing, some were dancing. Cheezy as it may seem, for these people this was a big moment. "I am so happy. This is really special. I will write about it in my diary", said to me Ishraq, one of the schoolgirls.
In response soldiers mobilized and gathered on top on the neighboring building pointing their M16 at us. But nobody really cared.
Then, as planned there was an art workshop for children, they were drawing their ideas of peace on a huge sheet of paper on the floor. It was all very symbolic. It was also quite an achievement: a real non violent action that showed sincere and deep-from-the-heart solidarity with Palestinians and attracted the media to the movement restriction problem in Hebron (there were a lot of media on the spot).
Tell Rumeida neighborhood has been closed after the 2nd intifada in 2000. What used to be once the main street of Hebron seems now a ghost city. Shops has been closed by military order. Only residents are allowed in. Palestinian are not allowed to drive on the streets, on some they are not allowed to walk. Israeli settlers that live inside Tel Rumeida often attack the Palestinian families, especially the children. Israeli soldiers and police do little to protect them (soldiers' task is to protect the settlers). That is why international presence there is very important: we accompany children to school and document settler violence.
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